Frequency | Percentage | Stocking rate
Nitrates | Conditioning | Water Changers
Rapid Nitrate Reduction





The removing of water from an aquarium and replacing it with fresh conditioned water is referred to as a Water Change. The goal of water changes is the dilution of the water held within fish stocking containers. The three variable factors to be considered are frequency of water changes , percentage of water exchanged and stocking rates . In the hatcheries operated by large commercial Angelfish breeders water is constantly exchanged in their tanks by the introduction of fresh water supplied by drip systems and removed by overflow systems. In most Angelfish Micro Hatcheries housed in our homes this is often not practical. Most of our tanks are sealed systems and water must be removed and replaced a tank at a time.

In sealed aquariums toxins build up inside the tank unless they are converted to less toxic compounds or removed. Dissolved organic compounds from feeding, the fish and plant waste accumulate and to contribute higher osmotic pressure. Fortunately the major toxins of concern, ammonia and then nitrites are converted by nitrifying bacteria into nitrates, which are not toxic at low levels. This process of conversion is called the nitrogen cycle.  We won't attempt to explain the nitrogen cycle here. We suggest you visit our General Angelfish Info page an follow the links on the nitrogen cycle provided there.

Tracking nitrates and other key chemical parameters provide the hobbyist a benchmark which can aid to establish our tanks general water quality and how effective water changes have been performed vs. stocking rates. Tracking nitrates levels also can indicate possible levels of dissolved organic compounds. Although nitrates are not lethal to Angelfish at low levels over a period of time they can buildup to stressfully high levels if not removed. This stress can cause Angelfish to become susceptible to a variety of parasites and pathogens that can infect fish. Nitrates are the end result of the nitrogen cycle and as such are an indicator of amount of nitrogen conversion that has taken place within a given period of time at the tanks current stocking rate. Nitrates should be tracked as an important or key variant parameter.

The exception to this may be show tanks that have had their water chemistry altered by CO2 injection for plant growth. These tanks plants may actually grow so fast as to consume nitrates for growth. However, CO2 injection may cause Ph values to fluctuate in a way that is not beneficial to Angelfish. Here at the Angelfish Micro Hatchery we love planted Angelfish show tanks but don't recommend CO2 injection. We do recommend tracking nitrates and the controlling of nitrate levels by dilution with water changes.

High nitrate accumulation is a common problem for aquaria keepers. It is sometimes referred to as Old Tank Syndrome . But it is also a problem for new tank setups that have recently finished their nitrogen cycle too.  In recently established tanks it is called New Tank Syndrome and hobbyist will notice a similar experience as those with Old Tank Syndrome but milder. Both often will have high nitrate accumulation and usually occur when regular maintenance and water change routines have not been fully established or are ignored. It may take our Rapid Nitrate Reduction Method to get back on track.

When nitrate levels can be maintained within a certain range with scheduled water changes the frequency of testing nitrate levels may be decreased or found unnecessary. Hatcheries with drip water exchange systems seldom have more than very low nitrate levels. They don't have to monitor nitrate levels as often, if at all. Most Angelfish Micro Hatchery tanks are not on such automatic systems and water must be tested and manually exchanged at intervals. Exchanging old tank water with fresh conditioned water manually, particularly with a bucket or pail can be very laborious. This can be somewhat offset by planning or scheduled water changes. The duration of the intervals possible between water changes varies from tank to tank. Tracking nitrates aids in the development of water change schedules suited for each tank, signals when it's schedule needs adjusting and improves AMH management and efficiency.
 
Nitrate levels and the suggested corrective actions.
Level Corrective Action
0 > 5 ppm Maintain scheduled water change frequency , percentage of water replaced and stocking rates .
5 > 10 ppm Increase either scheduled frequency water changes or percentage of water replaced. Decrease stocking rates to lower frequency or percentage.
10 > 20 ppm Increase both scheduled frequency water changes and percentage of water replaced Decrease stocking rates to lower frequency or percentage.
20 > 40 ppm Increase scheduled frequency water changes, percentage of water replaced and decrease stocking rates.

Important considerations...

Water change frequency can range from more than once daily for hatching tanks to weekly or longer for large show tanks. Many times hobbyist fall into a pattern of scheduled water changes that do not match their stocking rates. We sometimes allow our tanks to fall into decline following a rigid schedule. We may sometimes actually change water more than necessary. It's always good to learn as much as possible about our tank water and compared to our replacement water source. It's then good to form a benchmark as to what works for you and then maintain it. Then determine the optimum frequency needed for water changes to be effective. Use nitrate levels as a benchmark. Monitor nitrates as an alert as to when to adjust the frequency of scheduled water changes. The frequency of water changes needed to maintain acceptable nitrate levels may change over time. Remember that nitrate levels maybe a good indicator of possible high levels of total dissolved solids that you wish to control.

Below is a suggested schedule based on Angelfish age and stocked at moderate stocking rates. It is presented here as only a guide. Individual micro hatcheries frequency of water changes will vary.  However the table below does indicate obtainable frequency goals.
 
Age Frequency
Eggs Start after eggs hatch
Wigglers Twice Daily *
Fry Daily
Juveniles Twice Weekly
Adults Weekly
*  Replace small percentages of hatching media with fresh water slowly.

Water replacement percentage refers to the amount of water exchanged during each water change. Most water changes fall between the 20 to 50 percent ranges of exchange. Smaller frequent water changes are preferred by most breeders. Large drastic water changes have more impact on tank chemistry and are to be avoided if possible.

Here at the AMH we caution against cleaning filters within 24 hours of all major water changes. We consider exchanging more that 40 percent at one time as a major water change. Doing so may interrupt the nitrogen cycle by reducing the number of nitrifying bacteria colonized in the filter media. This could cause a spike in ammonia and nitrite levels or both. The presence of either can will cause Angelfish to become stressed or die. Fortunately nitrifying bacteria populations recover quickly. Major water changes may be performed 24 hours after filter cleanings.

Stocking rates is a topic that at first might seem out of place here in this Water Change section. However, stocking rates are an important consideration because of the direct effect they have on the need to perform water changes. Waste from growing Angelfish that are fed heavily and often, fuel the nitrogen cycle and the accumulation of its byproducts. These must be removed with water changes. Add more fish waste and food and multiply the production of byproducts and the need for water changes. Whenever the frequency of water changes becomes impractical reduce stocking rates. Visit our Stocking Rates page to see our suggested rates.

All replacement water must be conditioned before it is introduced into any tank. What type of conditioning depends on the source of the water. Know your water source. Learn all you can about it. Test your water at your faucet. Compare it to the values found in your tanks. Compare the PH value with that of your tanks in particular. They should match. If they don't match chances are you are not performing enough water changes. Find the true cause as to why they don't  match and take any corrective necessary until they do. Here at the Angelfish Micro Hatchery we suggest adjusting PH values of your tanks water with water changes until they match the PH of your fresh water source. Adding chemicals to adjust PH values is not recommended. In short, control your tank waters PH with water changes. It should be the same as your source water.

Water conditioning here at the Angelfish Micro Hatchery is focused on tap water and the removal of chlorine, chloramine and providing compatible water temperatures with that of your tanks. Chlorine is not found in most well water. Chlorine and chloramine are often added to municipal water systems and must be removed before it can be used in aquariums. They can be removed by several methods. Some of the methods used in larger hatcheries or fish rooms employ storing large quantities of water in containers. This is often not practical in our homes. We recommend the use of a liquid chemical dechlorinator to treat tap water. Most of these products work almost instantly and can be used safely. Always buy quality products and follow the manufacture's directions and cautions. If chloramines are present in your source water it is imperative that a chemical dechlorinator be used that states that it removes chloramines on the manufacturer's label. Be sure to follow the manufacture's directions and cautions.

Here at the AMH we use two basic techniques to perform water changes.  Most hobbyist will use both. What both have in common is the importance of matching the water temperature of your source water to that of your tanks. The difference between your source water and stocking tanks should only be plus or minus several degrees Fahrenheit. All liquid chemical dechlorinators can be added to a container of water such as a bucket or pail and then the water is poured in to the tank. Many dechlorinating products may also be safely added to the tank water before slowly replacing with fresh water that contains chlorine or chloramine.

The safest of these two ways to perform water changes for your Angelfish is with a bucket or pail. When performing water changes in delicate baby Angelfish tanks the extra care is a must. Buckets allow the aquarist to control temperature of the water and dechlorinate fresh water before it is added to the tank. Water can be poured into the tank slowly to further reduce chance of stressing stock. The down side of using buckets and pails is that it is time consuming and requires a lot of physical labor.

A labor saving technique many breeders use to aid water changes is the siphon. Instead of dipping water out of any tank, siphon it with a hose into a bucket. Long lengths of hose can be use direct water outside the house or into sink drains. As a technique the use of siphon action saves precious time and labor.

Always added replacement water slowly. Allow time for water conditioners to act on the water that has been added to the tank before adding more. This also will help to lower any potential stress your fish may be subjected to while performing a water change. Angelfish should respond in a positive manner to a correctly performed water change.

Here is the procedure for performing a water change with a bucket and hose.



Water Changers

Another technique that is used in many fish rooms and some larger hatcheries not on drip systems is the use of water changers. These devices  greatly reduce the amount time and labor needed to perform a water change. Water changers take advantage of siphon action to remove water from tanks. This action is assisted by a water driven pump attached to the faucet. The pump has a valve that directs water to either remove or fill the tank. Most water change kits include a hose, hose connectors, gravel tube, valve, faucet pump and adapters to fit most faucets. They are available in a variety of lengths, just measure the approximate distance from your tanks to the nearest sink to determine the length needed for your hatchery.
 
 

Typical Water Changer

 
Parts Diagram
  • 1. Two-Piece Faucet Adapter
  • 2. Faucet Pump
  • 3. Female Connector
  • 4. Hose
  • 5. Open/Close Switch
  • 6. Female Connector
  • 7. Male Connector
  • 8. Gravel Tube
  • 9. Guard/Strainer

Here at the Angelfish Micro Hatchery we suggest one modification to your water changer. We recommend that a stick on digital thermometer be added to the faucet end of your water changer. It can be secured with clear packaging tape. Use it to monitor the water temperature from the faucet to your tank. See the diagram below.
 

Add a Stick on Digital Thermometer

Warning:


Here is the procedure for performing a water change with a water changer.

Perform gradual, frequent water changes for the healthiest tank environment. Use nitrate levels as a indicator of water quality. Use a high quality dechlorinator if necessary. Always add replacement water the same temperature as your tank water slowly.

Warning:

Disclaimer: The author of this site offers no guarantee or reimbursement for any losses from the use of any water changer..



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